Open Cubic Player and Mods

Oh dear. This will be so niche that nobody is going to read. Anyway.

Long before MP3 files were a thing, the world had mod files. It had s3m, xm, and it music files. There was a thriving scene of musicians creating music for the love of it. Files were distributed on bulletin boards, by swapping disks and in the early internet of the mid to late nineties, by downloading from Hornet or ftp.cdrom.com.

Before I was really online I frequented BBSes in Ireland and every Sunday morning I’d download the latest week’s worth of new scene music from a BBS in Northern Ireland. Luckily, the telephone system here was loosening up, and we had pretty cheap rates at the weekend and in the evenings. There was a huge amount of rubbish there but some classics too, all sadly rotting away on some long forgotten hard drive.

The days of using a modem meant a slow connection to the world. Thankfully, the files weren’t huge. Unlike MP3 files, mod files were instructions on using embedded samples to play the music. The samples were short 8 or 16 bit sounds that were used over and over to make the music. That resulted in tiny files. For example, the title music to Cannon Fodder, a piece of music that is over 2 minutes long, is only 245Kb, and that was a fairly large file for the time.

Want a taste of amazing mods without doing any work? Many years ago I purchased a compilation CD called Freedom with some remarkable tracks. Here are a few songs from it. YouTube really doesn’t do them justice, however. You can grab MP3 rips of the CD from scene.org or look for the songs on The Mod Archive.

How do you play mod files today? The simplest way is by using VLC player. That player natively supports several mod formats. Install it and double-click your mod files to load them. Another option is Open Cubic Player. You’ll find the original DOS version on that site, but a separate Unix port is now maintained on this GitHub repository. Opinion on how good a player it was is divided in the community, but I loved it.

It’s a command line application you can install on macOS with brew install ocp or grab the Linux version from the GitHub repository. A DOS version is available from their homepage, which might let you run it on Windows. I created a macOS application using Automator. I had it “run shell script” and entered the following to change the directory to where my MOD files are stored and then launch the player:
cd ~/retro/MODS/ && /usr/local/bin/ocp

Save that as an application and copy into Applications. I couldn’t get it to load mod files by associating them in Finder but it’s possible to use the file navigator built into the player.

If you were active in the PC demoscene in the 90s, you’ll probably remember this player, and I think you’ll enjoy revisiting some of your old mod favourites. You can download mod files from a few sites listed on the Open Cubic Player GitHub page, but the best place to look is The Mod Archive. Best of all, you can play the mods in your browser, so you don’t need to worry about this ancient player at all. Their “About Modules” page lists other players for Linux, macOS, and Windows too.

Godox TT685s and X1Ts for Sony Mirrorless Cameras

A few years ago, I invested in a Godox TT685s flash unit, a TT350s flash unit and X1Ts transmitter for my Sony A7III camera. Despite their potential, I rarely use them, leading to some forgetfulness about configuring their wireless transmitters. A helpful YouTube video brought back memories of the necessary settings, including the requirement that the channels used for communication between devices must match. I also remembered there was an irritating issue about them, but I couldn’t quite recall what it was.

Before a party, I tested the flashes on our Chihuahua, Diego, placing one on the floor and the other on a window sill. Both worked flawlessly, and I was excited to use them that evening. Diego is a very patient subject, sometimes anyay.

My willing test subject, Diego.

Later on, I got my camera out, successfully made a photo or two of one group, then headed to the kitchen. However, while trying to photograph the beautiful desserts there, the flash refused to fire, even after several attempts. I resorted to aperture priority mode with auto ISO, managing to snap a few shots without the flash’s assistance. Despite the hiccups, I was able to capture images.

I went around to different groups to take photos, but to my dismay, the flash wouldn’t fire as expected, leaving me to apologize for my failed attempts. Fortunately, after numerous attempts, the flash worked, but the experience was disconcerting. Eventually, I resorted to attaching the flash to the camera and was relieved when it worked perfectly. Because of the complications, I was grateful to have captured some memorable shots.

While troubleshooting why my Godox TT685s flash didn’t fire, I scoured the internet for answers. Amidst various suggestions, I stumbled upon a StackExchange post that revealed the true reason behind the problem: the Godox X1Ts transmitter and the TT685s flash were positioned too closely to each other. I remembered it was the same vexing issue that had slipped my mind earlier!

Godox added a “close mode” to their transmitters to address the issue of the X1Ts transmitter and the TT685s flash being too close to each other. While it’s unclear to me why this would affect radio signals, it’s good to know there’s a solution. A firmware update may be needed for the X1Ts, but my device has the latest one (v18). To activate this feature, hold down the TEST button while powering on the transmitter until the status light blinks for 2 seconds. The setting will reset when the device is turned off. After trying this out, I can confirm that it worked flawlessly.

I don’t use flashes much. In the future, if I encounter that same non-firing issue with my Godox X1Ts transmitter and TT685s flash, I hope I’ll remember to check my own blog first to avoid the hassle of researching it elsewhere. Hopefully, my own documentation will come in handy and save me time in the long run!

Uh oh. Is adobeyourshotyourstory.com gone astray?

This morning I saw a notification on the Adobe “Creative Cloud” app I can get pro tips for photographing people…. etc etc. I thought it was the usual material Adobe brings out, which to be fair, is quite good, so I clicked it.

It’s odd that the news item is from a week ago, but I only saw the notification now, but that happens. The page loaded in the background while I checked other things in another window. I glanced back and saw the ublock origin was stopping a tracking redirect. Uh oh. The only thing I had loaded was that Adobe link. Curious, I let it through until it redirected to a spam page on iyfbodn.com.

I was expecting something that looked more like the website that was archived last year. A quick whois of adobeyourshotyourstory.com shows it was updated in October last year, but the domain now appears to be owned by someone in Tbilisi, Georgia!

I am very interested to hear how this happened. It’s one thing to take over a prominent domain (Adobe last mentioned the domain on Twitter in June 2022) but to get a notification in the Creative Cloud app that redirects to a spam site is quite an achievement. Unfortunately.

Redirecting ?replytocom so bots go home

Earlier this month I noticed that a particular bot that likes to visit my website, “MJ12bot/v1.4.8” seems to be particularly attracted to the “reply to comment” links generated by my blog. Those are links that bots see, but we see the “Reply” button that uses JavaScript to reply to a comment.

To be honest, it’s pretty annoying to see a bot constantly fetching those URLs from my website. Earlier this month, it was on a roll and grabbing several dozen at a time. While my server can handle the traffic without any issues, who wants a bot trampling over their server?

I decided to stop them in two ways:

  • Redirect them back to the post in a mod_rewrite rule.
  • Block them in robots.txt and hopefully the bots will go away.

Coming up with a mod_rewrite rule was surprisingly hard, but after mentioning this on Mastodon I received a reply from Jos Klever who figured out I needed the QSD flag. So, to spare you the hassle of researching it, here are the mod_rewrite rules that worked for me. It causes a 301 permanent redirect to the anchor tag of the comment. Add this to your .htaccess file.

RewriteCond %{QUERY_STRING} replytocom=(.*)$
RewriteRule ^(.*)/          $1/#comment-%1 [NE,QSD,L,R=301]

Blocking requests like this in the robots.txt is much simpler. WordPress can generate the robots.txt file for you using the robots_txt filter. Add the following to a mu-plugin PHP script.

function disallow_replycom_urls( $output, $public ) {
    $output .= 'Disallow: ?replytocom';
    return $output;
}
add_filter( 'robots_txt', 'disallow_replycom_urls', 10, 2 );

I haven’t received many comments on my posts lately. However, I stumbled upon some interesting posts by clicking the RANDOM link above, which I decided to examine as part of my research. During my search, I delved deep into the blogosphere of the past, almost like being an archaeologist, because some links were no longer available, and I had to search for them on archive.org. I was also pleasantly surprised to find that a link to a GIF from 2005 was still alive!

How to: a keyboard shortcut to lock your Mac

For many years, I was using a hot corner to lock the screen of my Mac, but I always wished there was the equivalent of Windows-L in Windows to do it.

I have no idea when this keyboard shortcut was added, but tapping the CTRL-CMD-Q shortcut will lock your Mac screen. Apparently, if you have a small magic keyboard, then CTRL-Shift-Eject will do the job too. This Stack Exchange Question shows the shortcut wasn’t available in 2015. Users had to resort to all sorts of tricks to lock their screen with the keyboard. An updated answer from 2019 reveals the shortcut, so I guess it’s at least four years old.

An apple on the side of the road
An apple on the ground. Like shortcuts, you never know what you’ll find.

Hot corners are great and all, but I’ve had so much trouble making sure the cursor stayed in the corner. I’d watch to make sure my mouse didn’t move, and the screen remained locked. Otherwise, I turn my back, I’m heading out the door and the screen lights up again!

Loads more keyboard shortcuts here if you’re interested in that sort of thing. That page may also explain why something strange happened on your computer while you were typing into the wrong window and changed a Finder setting, for instance.

Have fun getting locked.

GraXpert fixes your Astro shots

Hot off my RSS feeds is GraXpert which I found through this Fstoppers article. It corrects colour tints and gradients in astrophotography shots. I don’t do much astrophotograpy:

  1. late nights
  2. cloudy nights
  3. clear nights are cold

But when I do, I get colour tints from nearby towns and cities, or I add it myself thinking it looked better. I’m still very much a newbie when it comes to this sort of thing. Anyway, here is a Milky Way photo I took in Tenerife last year. I thought it came out pretty well, despite my attempts to make it look better.

The Milky Way, viewed from the volcano on Tenerife Island.

From March to the end of August is the best time to shoot the Milky Way in Ireland, and I have to admit I rarely ventured out to try this sort of photography since taking that photo in Tenerife. So, when I read about GraXpert that was the photo that sprang to mind. I loaded the original tiff file into it, pressed the “Create Grid” button, and then hit the “Calculate Background” button. I’m rather pleased with the results!

The GraXpert Grid
The Milky Way, viewed from the volcano on Tenerife Island.

I did no other work with this, which is why you can see the foreground, but even so, it got rid of that green colour cast in the sky.

GraXpert is free, open source software. It’s not a plugin of Lightroom or Photoshop, but it’s easy to generate a TIFF file for Photoshop from Lightroom, and then open it in an external programme. It’s definitely worth a try if you have any astro photos you need to work on.

Teach me to draw

I got a drawing tablet last week. It’s an XP-Pen Deco 02. I used to be pretty good at drawing with pencil and paper, but I left that all behind when I was about 15 as school work piled up. Art for the Leaving Cert (the state exam in Ireland before university/college) was as much about art history as drawing a still life or a 3D projection, and it didn’t appeal to me.

Many years ago I bought a small Wacom tablet, but I could never get it working properly in Linux, so it was thrown aside. This tablet is a different beast. It’s huge in comparison with the small tablet I had before and much more sensitive. For a horrified hour, I thought that the pen pressure wasn’t being picked up by the computer. I reinstalled drivers a few times, rebooted, installed Wacom drivers too, in desperation. In the ends, I figured it out. I was using a brush in Krita that didn’t have any pressure controls!

In days gone by, I’d buy a book on drawing, but now I looked up YouTube. There are so many drawing tutorials!

This one by Marc Brunet had some solid ideas for progressing through 30 days, practising drawing circles and cubes and projections, but I needed a more basic introduction to using a tablet to draw.

Next up was Brad, who had this video showing some simple exercises to do, drawing circles in each corner of the canvas, drawing circles around them, and then joining them. Flushed with success, I looked at his other videos and found another video explaining how to draw digitally for beginners.

While it was good for practise, I probably should have stuck to drawing circles and other simple shapes, but this video did make me more aware of layers and different brushes. The result of my efforts may not look quite like what Brad had drawn on his video, however.

Onwards and upwards!

KSP has tutorials now!

I noticed that Kerbal Space Program recently added another Easter egg to the Mun, which was enough reason for me to fire up the game again. (It was given away for free on Epicgames recently, so you probably have it!)

I had to reinstall it as it wouldn’t launch with my mods, but when I fired it up I saw there are now training missions.

I jumped ahead to the two Mun missions. The first one is getting from Kerbin orbit to the Mun. The instructions are clear and fairly easy to follow, I imagine, for someone who hasn’t done it before. The second part starts with you in orbit around the Mun and you have to land. I wish I had that ten years ago! Setting the apoapsis to a low altitude of about 6km and with a 4 star pilot it was simple to land. Just set the rocket to retrograde. The instructions to power up or down got a bit much and I forgot you can feather the throttle with CAPSLOCK (but I’ve mapped ESC to that key anyway…) which would help. When you’re only travelling at 3-5m/s it’s easy to reverse course.

When you try getting to the Mun outside the training missions, you’ll need about 7500 Delta-V to get there, land and return to Kerbin according to this old tutorial on the KSP wiki, but there are other tutorials now.

If you want to install mods, you should probably use CKAN. I need to get it working again and install Mechjeb and whatever the kids are playing with these days. My old computer isn’t that powerful, so I guess I’m not going for any of the graphical upgrades.

The training missions were a success. I landed on the Mun and returned to Kerbin in both missions. That was very satisfying.

TIL to search date ranges in Google Photos

I learned something new about Google Photos. I can examine the photos taken between two dates by entering :YYYYMMDD-YYYYMMDD in the search box.

I have images going back more than twenty years in Google Photos so a way to view a selection of those images is really useful!

St Patrick’s Day, 2019

I haven’t been using Google Photos as much since they added space limitations, but this search will still be useful!

Goodbye to 2022

The great Oli Frey created the cover for Zzap!64 issue 68, 1990. It was the last picture in the Zzap!64 2022 calendar. It celebrated the release of Chase HQ 2. I don’t remember playing that game, but I must have. I definitely played the first game and it wasn’t great. Here’s a play through of it. Are those Dick Tracy adverts at the side of the road? Oh dear!

Time to put the calendar away but I guess I can use it again in 2033, 2039, 2050, 2061, 2067, 2078, 2089, 2095, 2101, 2107, and 2118. I wonder if people will still use paper calendars in 2118?